Last
summer, my first, and scariest, memory of Ghana was its airport. An assault on
the senses that left me weary and concerned about what I'd signed myself up
for. This is also what i told the newcomers on the trip. Be prepared. Get
psyched up. Take deep breaths because the terminal is madness.
Imagine
my surprise when we were met with orderly yellow fever checks, a roped off
calmly winding passport queue and revamped luggage conveyor belts. The
exit out of international arrivals was wide and easily passable. And on the
other side, last year's drivers, Clement and Ellis, awaited us like old
friends.
But
I wasn't fooled; the worst part was yet to come. Men, tall, short and fat,
trying to grab at your luggage to 'help' you carry it to your vehicle. They
were on us immediately upon exiting into humid city air last July. So I stepped
out, gear strapped to my back, suitcase handle firmly in hand and was greeted
by...no one. In the place of leery touts stood a set of picnic tables, a series
of outdoor food establishments and a fence hemming in the car park. Progress.
Way to up the game, Ghana.
Winding
our way through Accra, I was also surprised to find that I knew the way to our
accommodation. And that it kind of felt like I never left. That's a nice
feeling when you're somewhere as far away from your norm like Africa.
That
quickly changed when the cluster of disorganization happened upon arrival at
Yiri Lodge. Rooms weren't ready. The staff seemed to know nothing about what
was going on. When I finally opened the door to room 14, I was greeted with a
series of 14 damp towels strewn across the bed, desk and chair, a wall stained
with brown such and such and bloodstained sheets. The lock didn't really lock.
A hooded man-cum-security guard lurked around the courtyard with his face
covered.
In
typical Western fashion, I complained and was moved rooms, only to be moved
again a day later.
It
appears the management here has changed and everything has lost last summer's
shiny veneer. One of the girls got shouted at: 'move your laundry from
your balcony! It's an eyesore!' music pumps late into the evening and there's a
general sense of unease. Nothing huge, but a definite shift.
Above
all of this, I feel a shift in the group dynamics as well. Nothing bad. Just
different, very different. We're a group of 10 women meeting a team of summer school
teachers who have already been here for a week. And there's some very strong
personalities that make me feel less inclined to show the real me. I feel
somehow old. Not in age but mentality.
I
am aware that this trip is nothing about our accommodation or the airport or
the dynamics of the group. But it has set me up for an uneasy
start. And that's not fair to my very lovely group whose only failing is
that they are not the Beth, Charley, Charlotte, Dora, Ian, Jen, Juliet, Paul,
Meryl, Wendy powerhouse combination of last year.
But
if Ghana's taught me anything it's to be flexible and resilient because
change comes barreling down your door whether you like it or not.
With
this in mind, I forge into the next two weeks of adventures in teaching.
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