Big Island Geology at its Finest

Hawaii doesn't do things by halves. It gives you the most barren, charred terrain in one hand and one of America's top ten beaches in the other. You get lost and kind locals give you directions to the home of the world's largest pancake. Taxi drivers wax lyrical about Brexit, shopkeepers wax lyrical about Brexit, they all spit venom on the topic of Donald Trump.

Punalu'u Beach

It would be impossible to chart every moment on our trip so to settle for some highlights, I start with the black sand beach located on the Big Island's South Shore. The satnav did most of the work in finding this place and one kind local did the rest. We drove to the end of the world where a small car park was conveniently located. A old man clad in skimpy shorts pointed us encouragingly down a cliff. Once we determined that this was, in fact, not an attempt at murder, we were greeted with a stunning, small, cliffwalled-in beach. 

In terms of geological processes, the one that creates the vivid black sand is simple. Lava flows into the ocean and upon contact with the much cooler water, it explodes and cools creating black sand. There's no lava here today, just fine black crystalline goodness:

We would have stayed forever had not a jaundiced nudist interrupted the peace with his naked yellow behind.

Kahalu'u Beach Park
At first glance, this little beach didn't seem altogether remarkable. I mean, it was just off the road and a short walk to the Kona trolley and there was a food truck selling the world's biggest shave ices (which we did, in fact, partake in). But as we sat, people with snorkel masks kept on jumping out of the water expounding on the presence of sea turtles. Since they donned the proper equipment, we didn't think much.

But Clare hopped into the rocky outcrops of the icy water and soon she too was exclaiming. And sure enough, a friendly group of sea turtles munched on the seaweed and other reefy delights tucked into the rocks. Every tourist, in a glaring difference to anything that would have happened in China, took a reverent step back and watched.

Hapuna Beach

On our final day in paradise, we managed to wangle a rental car and made our way across the island to one of Hawaii's state parks. International travel magazines cite Hapuna as one of the best beaches in the US, if not the world. With half a mile of white sand, crystal clear water and a delightful little snack bar, it was an excellent find.

From faraway: 

 And then close up:

It's been a year of truly stunning beaches in the world. How did I get so lucky? 

On the way home as perhaps a reminder of the geological processes that shaped such extreme beauty and barrenness, we drove on newly paved roads through fields of volcanic rock.

Kilaeua and Volcanoes National Park loomed in the distance reminding us that the earth isn't quite something humans can control. How cool. 

Taking to the Skies

Over the course of the last year, Clare and I played an elaborate game on our morning taxi ride to work: what could you do with your life if you quit teaching? It perhaps felt elaborate due to the lack of caffeine coupled with the vomit-inducing lane changing by Shanghainese taxi drivers at 6:30am. As the year wore on, our list became increasingly fanciful; even Paul threw in his two cents:

Looking back, I think we were giddy with the prospect of a summer holiday and a little desperate to reconnect with the things that made us more than just our jobs. By the time we made it to the Big Island, our woes felt far away. And then something marvellous happened--I found a fanciful job that feels like a bit of a pipe dream but that people actually do. As I sit here today, I debate the merits of becoming a helicopter pilot!

Not kidding. Seriously not kidding.

Pre-end of school year, Gemma organised a tour of The Big Island's waterfalls and volcanoes with  Paradise Helicopter Tours via Hilo airport. She picked us up bright and early the day of the UK Brexit vote and we made our way to the airport for a safety briefing before setting off in our chopper made for six. Karen was gifted with pride of place in the front whilst Clare, Gemma and I squished in the back next to a very friendly American couple.

Up, up and away we hovered towards Kilauea, the world's most active volcano.  On the way, our pilot pointed out the remaining charred volcanic sediments that almost engulfed the town of Pahoa in 2014. Above us, blue, blue sky:

As we got closer, the terrain became noticeably grey and rocky.

And then, out of the descending mist, a volcano appeared! 

And skylights acting as volcanic vents danced and splashed the lava beneath us:

We circled several times and managed to take several hundred pictures to which I will spare you.

On the way back to the airport, we hovered our way over Rainbow Falls, which sounds much prettier in Hawaiian: Wai‘ānuenue Falls. 

And made a slow descent via Hilo, the rainiest city in America:

45-minutes later, as we landed, I was hooked. To be honest, we all were. I think Gemma wins though:

Flight school's in the offing for these tired teachers:

The Big Island

After our stint in Waikiki, we made our way to Kailua-Kona via Island Air on a 45-minute delight of a flight. Once airborne, our flight attendant doubled as tour guide and pointed out the islands, beaches and landmarks 5,000 feet below. We were almost disappointed that the flight was so short.

But making it to Kona had its definite perks. We initially made the mistake of not hiring a car and though it is possible to get around, nothing is particularly close when you have to walk. Fortunately, our hotel-cum-condo stay was located near a slew of tiny roadside beaches where we were able to catch glimpses of sunset, of wildlife, of food trucks:

 

Kind greetings everywhere you look:

The world's tiniest Catholic church:

Leis in vending machines :

Two days into our adventure, Gemma shuttled us around in her hired car for an epic day trip before we eventually were able to get a car of our own. The geology. The landscape. 

Aloha Hawaii

Hawaii has always been a far and distant dream to me, a cliched one of honeymoon proportions and loud, tanned (burned?) American tourists. Living in London, it was as realistic on my travel list as going to Fiji or Bora Bora, a beautiful dream with no substance.

But as it turns out, Shanghai is well placed to get to these geological delights. One direct flight a day heads from Shangers to Honolulu in 10 hours and multiple flights connect via Japan. I flew to Honolulu via Osaka on Hawaiian Airlines for a reasonable sum and was greeted with endless Hawaiian viewing: hello Season 1 of Hawaii 5-0! Hello every film ever set in Hawaii!

That was the beginning of something of a crush on the mid-Pacific geological wonders. 

I met Clare and Karen on Waikiki Beach where we holed up for three nights. It was what I expected--tourists, shopping, bad chain restaurants. There were gems to be found off the main strip and the beach was admittedly beautiful despite the throngs of people. 

We ate shave ice.

We watched the surfers eat dust in the waves.

We marvelled at endless sunshine with Mai Tais in hand.

Between the 18-hour time difference jet lag, we attended to the tourist functions. In the first of a series of summer small worldness, Rosa and her family were in Hawaii at the same time and we joined them at a luau. Watching the pig emerge from the charcoal pit was not high on the list of vegetarian delights, and the cheese factor was high but what can you do? 

We emerged three days later more tanned and ready for a hop to the Big Island, home of arguably the US's best national park with its own active volcano and some stunning secluded beaches. This was the Hawaii I was dreaming of.

Summer in Review

This morning I intended to wake up and take a nice long walk around the Tay Ho environs of Hanoi, my current locale and penultimate stop on my summer 2016 Great Asian Adventure. These plans were abruptly thwarted when I stepped outside: my phone read 33c, feels like 41. It makes more of an impact in Fahrenheit: 91, feels like 106.  

I lasted seven minutes before ducking into a coffee shop and in all honesty, I'm surprised I even made it that long. I am a hot mess in quite a literal way and have taken to carrying around a little hedgehog hankie to manage. It's as glamourous as sweating will ever be. 

Fortunately, the heat is good for banishing me to the indoors otherwise I might never get around to sitting down and blogging the summer escapades. Considering I've yet to finish blogging last summer's adventures or the end of China, it's a small consolation.

Seven weeks later, the end of the 2015-16 school year feels a far and distant past. I'm holding onto hope that the trains, planes and automobiles of this adventure do something to diminish the reverse culture shock I am anticipating upon London return. By the end of this summer, I will have taken 21 flights (sorry carbon footprint), traversed seven countries and linked up with travel buddies of the American, British and Kiwi persuasions. 

The brief breakdown:

Week 1: Hawaii 

Week 2-3: Japan

Week 4: Singapore and Malaysia

Week 5: Malaysia (peninsular)

Week 6: Borneo (still part of Malaysia)

Week 7: Bali 

Week 8: Hanoi and Shanghai

Week 9-10: Michigan 

Week 11: Home (London)

It would be an understatement to say it's been epic. I may never finish blogging it.